It started last fall when I got the itch to overhaul my wardrobe. I wanted to find a few basic patterns that I could use repeatedly for a uniform of sorts. This resulted in my spending quite a bit of time perusing patterns online, both the big four (McCall’s, Vogue, Butterick and Simplicity) and indie patterns (so many indie patterns!). I didn’t want a lot of components in the pattern as I’m a lazy seamstress – I’m in awe of you who do these complicated, beautiful garments, but I much prefer something I can make in an afternoon. And so, after a lot of internet surfing and falling down some hashtag rabbit holes on Instagram, I ordered myself Lotta Jansdotter’s Everyday Style.

One of the reasons why I like to sew my own clothes is that I am not a petite woman – at 5’9”, I often find sleeves and other hemlines of ready to wear clothes a little short on me. And having put twenty pounds on my already not tiny frame thanks to the trifecta of baking my way through covid, giving up my gym membership because covid, and menopause over the last few years means that the already frustrating process of trying to find clothes to fit me got that much more challenging. Pattern makers are really no better than the ready to wear manufacturers in terms of sticking to a uniform size, so I’ve learned the hard way to always make a test run out of inexpensive fabric, figuring out where to make adjustments as I go before cutting into the fabric I want to make the piece out of. I know many seamstresses tend to use muslin for this, but I prefer to use fabrics either from the stash or ones I’ve picked up at The Scrappy Elephant, our local creative reuse store. It’s cheaper than muslin, helps keep my stash in check (sort of) and then I end up with something new to wear that’s much more interesting than muslin.

I don’t just keep a stash of fabric, I also have a stash of trims as well as a few sewing books I keep around for reference. It’s all in a cluttered little corner of my bedroom that is constantly being reorganized because that’s life in a small house. I also don’t have a good spot for taking selfies of myself in my creations, but I did find a good corner for my dressmaker dummy to model them for me. I don’t really have room for her, but she’s handy, so she stays.

I started with a test run of the Esme tunic from Everyday Sewing, made with a plaid flannel fabric I picked up at Scrappy Elephant. I intentionally sewed the fabric inside out, so that the finished garment would have a cleaner look while being a littler warmer to wear. I added a few inches to the tunic length but discovered it was still a bit too short for my liking to wear as a dress. There wasn’t enough fabric left over to properly match the plaid and adding another fabric didn’t feel like the right answer. So I ended up turning it on its side and adding a four inch strip and voila. Problem solved.

Test tunic made, I was able to move on and make myself a handkerchief weight black linen version, perfect for spring and summer events. I purchased the linen new from this website (they run some great sales!). I adore linen and it’s one of the few fabrics I will seek out new. The finished version of this is very reminiscent of my favorite little black knit dress thrifted years ago that has seen better days. I’ve spent years trying to find a new one I love as much, so realizing this pattern had the same line I was looking for delighted me to no end.

Also from Everyday Style is the Kiomi dress. I had added some width to Esme, so I did the same for the Kiomi test. I used a heavy linen from the stash – I’m fairly sure it’s a drapery fabric and honestly isn’t as comfortable (and it started shredding as I was trying to sew it) as a lighter linen. It turns out that this dress is cut a bit larger than the Esme and the extra width I added was unnecessary. The resulting dress isn’t flattering but it’s perfect for around the house.

I found this delightful vintage fabric at Scrappy Elephant. Almost gauzy, it’s light and airy, perfect for summer. I used the Kiomi pattern, making my own bias tape to finish the neckline and armholes. It’s delightful, although I do find the armholes from that pattern a bit snug on me. Really, all the armholes from Everyday Style are a bit snug, so I need to sort that out next time I use that pattern book.

I was at the library one afternoon when I found All Well’s “How to Sew Clothes” on the New Releases shelf. Intrigued, I checked it out after a brief flip through it. Within days, I had made the box top, then two versions of the box top dress as I played around with sizes and hacks while also going out and buying myself a copy. The large – the LARGE!- fits me while the extra-large, the size I have reached for since I was 14 – was way too big. And the length on the box top dress option, while stating it was knee length for a 5’3” woman was also somehow long enough for me, maybe even too long? I needed to use a 2” hem for it to be just below my knees, which feels delightful. I cannot tell you how much I love these combined details for myself – finally, a pattern I don’t have to alter to fit because it’s tall enough AND wide enough.

The top is made of a linen blend I picked up at Scrappy Elephant on one of their $2/pound fabric sales. I got an insane amount (close to 20 yards), so you’ll definitely be seeing more of this fabric. Unfortunately, despite being laundered and hung to dry several times, I could not iron that crease out of the bottom. And I didn’t take the time to ensure I was laying the pattern out properly on the grain and it shows. That’s fine. I learned a lot in making that top, including mustering the courage to finally make my own bias trim. I’ve been sewing almost 40 years and have always been intimated by it and I’m not sure why. No more.

This blue floral cotton fabric is also from Scrappy Elephant. It looks like an oil painting – it’s a lightweight cotton and just delightful on hot days. I originally made it in the XL size (what they call size 3) and it was just a little too big – it was decidedly muumuu adjacent as one of my girlfriends declared it. I ended up altering it, removing length and width to move it back to more of what feels like a house dress. It definitely has a matronly feel to it, but honestly? I’m going to be 54 this fall. I’m just going to start embracing it.

And more of the black handkerchief linen. This is the perfect summer dress for any occasion that calls for dressing up, particularly in 100 degree weather. I added some length to the sleeves to make hemming them a little easier (I found finishing the original length a bit wonky). And, as I did for all the dresses I’ve made here, I added hidden pockets. Both books have suggestion for patch pockets, but I think hidden pockets are far more elegant, with a cleaner look.

I did use a patch pocket on this wraparound skirt from Sewing Green by Betz White though (the book is from the stash). Again, the fabric is from Scrappy Elephant – it was maybe a yard? It was clearly a drapery sample although it reminded me of sheets my Granny had. I knew I could get a skirt out of it, but I was going to have to piece it together. By using a coordinating fabric for the last panel that is hidden when you wear it, I was able to have enough fabric to put a patch pocket on the side of the skirt.

I haven’t only been making things for myself to wear. I’ve made some sweet little newborn kimonos (the Lucy kimono from Weekend Sewing by Heather Ross, another book from the stash) as baby gifts that are so cute I can barely stand it. And this wine bag out of a vintage hand sewn, hand embroidered linen placemat. Old fabric napkins and placemats are just the perfect size to turn into wine gift bags and take no more than 5 minutes to whip up. It’s a great way to give new life to them once they’ve served out their original purpose. There’s also been a dress for Edie girl with a few other things in the works for her, but that’s a whole nother post.